Serums, Oils or Acids…WTF?

Back in the day, around the time I worked out why my cleanser wasn’t working, I discovered serums. I was using Keihl’s Midnight Oil or Clarins’ amazing Double Serum… but these days, suddenly there seems to be about a thousand different oils, serums and now acids around - so how are you supposed to decide what’s right for you, let alone choose between them? Well, let’s have a look…

Serums

Ok so let’s start with serums. The main difference with serums is that they penetrate deeper. They can be in oil, cream or gel form but the molecules are smaller so they can get down into the lower layers and target specific problems you may have - like ageing! Serums should NOT be used instead of moisturisers because they don’t lock moisture in and keep it in the skin or prevent you from losing water. The best way to use a serum is in conjunction with a moisturiser so they can work to complement each other.

My favourite serums would have to be (still) the Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate. I use this one at night and it especially helps anti-ageing. My skin looks so much better after a night of this bad boy working. It’s supposed to enhance your skin’s natural recovery process whilst you sleep. I also mentioned Clarin’s Double Serum another one for anti-aging, this leaves your skin feeling softer and smoother and it boosts radiance - just my kinda serum!

acids

Acids don’t seem to have been part of the mainstream for long but they’re definitely here to stay. There just seem to be so many to choose from. So where do you start? Acids were always part of the beauty products but having them as the standalone ingredient that we’re all supposed to understand is fairly new. It’s a common misconception that acids can be used like serums and just provide moisture, but actually, different acids do different things and it’s important A) use the right ones for the concern you’re trying to target and B) not use them all at the same time. Here are a few of the main ones:

For dry / dehydrated skin

Hyaluronic Acid - probably the most famous of the acids, this one is used for retaining moisture and plumping the skin.

Oleic Acid - this one is great for dry skin and contains moisturising, fatty acids. It’s been known to help eczema due to its anti-inflammatory properties.

For acne

Salicyclic Acid - this is great for those with acne-prone, oily skin. It also works to even out the skin tone.

Glycolic Acid - this one helps with the appearance of spots and scars and makes your skin look more radiant.

For ageing

Ferulic Acid - this one is an antioxidant which helps with signs of ageing, although it’s pretty strong so if you have sensitive skin beware.

Citric Acid - full of antioxidants, this acid from citrus fruits helps prevent premature ageing - exfoliating and brightening the skin.

Lactic Acid - this one helps with fine lines, softening them. For those with sensitive skin this is a great one to use as it’s more gentle than other acids.

For sensitive skin

Azelaic Acid - this one is to help with redness. Even if you have sensitive skin, you can can use this to balance out the skin tone.

For brightening

Ascorbic Acid - this one has a load of vitamin C and the antioxidants that work to stimulate collagen production and brighten up the skin.

Mandelic Acid - this one is great if you’re looking for a peel and works to brighten and lighten the skin.

Facial Oils

So last but not lease we come to facial oils. Put simply, they are used to boost moisture in your skin. They can be used to moisturise but because oils mimic the skin’s natural sebum production, they may actually be more effective. Oils are also not mixed with water like moisturisers are, so they act as a barrier for stopping hydration escaping the skin. That said, moisturisers do have their place. They contains water and get deeper into the skin to plump and hydrate. Oils should be used as a last step for the top layer of your skin. My favourite right now is the Dr Botanicals Rose Facial Oil*.

*Gifted - although it’s still true, of course!